Home is Where you Park It

This morning we woke up to the sound of rain on our "moon roof." Rain is a welcome sight to the gardens of the Whangarei region, as it has apparently been dry for weeks. There's no doubt that Fern needed the wash, but we left the towels outside to dry last night, which are evidently now still wet. Life on the road is the sort of stuff you joke about later over beers, when you are off the road. Waking up at 2am to swat at the mosquitos who have wandered through the open window (an attempt to counteract the effective greenhouse our van is by day) doesn't make for the most glorious travel stories. But there is plenty of glory to be found in NZ, usually when we are on break from our mobile apartment.

We have been north-bound for just over a week now, in search of the top of NZ. Here are some of the highlights:

- A stop in Auckland to see the largest metropolis in NZ and visit with Tom, who has escaped the UK to study at Auckland University for his PhD. We share fabulous food, share stimulating conversation, and hike Rangitoto, Auckland's newest volcano.

- We camp at Rawene and Bry makes bread in the camp kitchen's oven. Making the most of motorcamp facilities makes it less painful to pay obsence amounts for less than brilliant accomodation.

- We lunch in Ahipara with a view of the beginning of the 90 Mile Beach, a beach that actually doubles as a highway.

- We enjoy a quiet coffee break in Kaitai, 30 minutes of free internet at the local library, and stock up at local Pak 'n' Save for supplies (needed daily as our chilly bin is a mere decoration and hasn't worked since day 1).

- We reach Cape Reinga, the very top of NZ where the Tasman sea and the Pacific Ocean meet, before 8am and our fellow tourists. We are rewarded with a massive beach to ourselves to soak it all in.

- We scorch our feet on the Te Paki sand dunes during the hottest time of the day. Who's idea was this?

- In Paihia, I buy Bry a "cheap" NZ breakfast ($13 NZD) which seems like a good idea at the time, but actually results in hours of "gut rot." While Bry recovers in the van I frolic in the Pacific, realizing that the "moving seaweed" I am swimming with is actually a huge (sting?) ray.

- And then YESTERDAY! We splurge on a tour of the Poor Knights marine reserve which is just off the coast of Tutukaka. The tour includes a boat tour of the reserve, snorkeling, sea kayaking, paddle boarding, and lunch. Oh and an unexpected bonus; wild dolphins! So we swam with wild dolphins, no big deal... These surprisingly large, magestic beauties were within metres of us for about 20 minutes. As we struggled to keep up with them, they danced in circles alongside us, almost mocking our rudimentary swimming abilities. We (along with our fellow divers from the tour) were both simply bursting. It was the perfect day.

I realize that it will be hard to top swimming with wild dolphins, but the trip is still young. Until then, don't pee in a rented wetsuit.

Some photos for you to enjoy.

We realize that in NZ a "jafa" is not a type of caffeinated beverage, but simply an affectionate name for Auckland urbanites.

Murray, the Atlantic Puffin who joins us in the front seat. He is constantly pouring over the map, consistently annoyed at Fern's ability to consume petrol like it's her job, and manages to enjoy the cd's we purchased from the Waikato District's Libary for $2 each.

Fern, in all her glory.

Just relaxing where the Tasman Sea ends and the Pacific Ocean begins.

Te Paki sand dunes at noon.

Leaving the Poor Knights Islands marine reserve, estatic.